We will remember Friday 12 June 2020. #freakyfriday. It was a crazy day in Kalk Bay brought on by a big southerly swell.
The swell was big although not classic and perfect Kalk Bay Reef. Lots of double-ups and closeouts were on hand. This added to the drama with broken boards, sore bodies and some madmen take offs into never never land.
Late in the afternoon there were 44 surfers in the water. It’s the most people I have ever surfed with out there in my 40+ years of riding that beautiful wave. Everyone was mellow and I didn’t see or hear of any bad vibes. Everyone was smiling and laughing bout the craziness of it all. So lekker.
The crowd in the car park,and along the railway tracks, enjoyed the spectacle with hoots and hollows. I even saw one rider get clapped in as he crossed the tracks – was his parents thankful he had survived?
A man walked amongst us “cigarettes, cigarettes, I’m selling cigarettes”. Clandestinely showing us a box as he looked over his shoulder to ensure he wasn’t going to get arrested for his illicit dealings. Or worse, get mugged by a smoke starved crazy surfer. I never asked him the price and his presence added to the intrigue of the day.
Then there was the dude who got obliterated on the pier by the largest wave of the day. See my previous post to check how that unfolded.
After my late afternoon session I sat with photographer Sean Thompson on the railway tracks while he captured some last light shots. Long lenses, short lenses, phone cameras and drones were all over the place. There were 5 water photographers out at one stage.
Due to lockdown the trains are not running so it was safe sitting on the tracks watching the show unfold. And the hoards were not interrupted by any nervous train drivers. Some onlookers arrived with beers, they didn’t share, to toast a good day. When it was dark there were still 20 surfers in the water.
A great, crazy day connecting with mates and sharing good waves and good vibes.
And all the time COVID-19 lurked…..
My free Kalk Bay eBook can be downloaded here: https://stephenc.co.za/free-kalk-bay-ebook/